1. Clean first, then everything else
Most old typewriters are simply dirty, not broken. Use a soft brush, a blower bulb or a low-power vacuum on the type bars, segment and crevices. Rub surface rust with 0000 steel wool and a touch of mineral oil. Rule one: clean before you lubricate — always.
2. The golden rule of oiling: less is more
Apply only a half-drop of light machine or sewing oil to friction points: type-bar pivots at the segment and the carriage rails. Never oil the key plungers — excess oil collects dust and turns to gum, jamming the machine. Oil a typewriter by the drop, never by the pour.
3. Replacing the ribbon
Most standards and portables take 1/2-inch (13mm) fabric ribbon on two spools. Remove the old one, mount the new with the inked side facing out (per your machine), wind clockwise and advance a few spaces. Fresh generic ribbons are still widely available online.
4. Quick troubleshooting
Jammed type bars: usually dust or old gum — clean the segment. Faint print: change the ribbon, then check the ribbon-lift brings the ribbon to the paper. Sluggish return: clean and lightly oil the carriage rails. No bell: check the hammer is free and the spring attached. Before any deep repair, find your model's manual — most old manuals are free to download.
5. Storage: dust, damp and sun
Keep the machine covered with its case or a cloth, out of direct sunlight (which embrittles plastic and fades keycaps), in a dry place (humidity rusts the works). Leave the carriage returned to relieve spring tension. Unplug electric machines before long storage.
6. When to call a pro
Broken parts (bars, springs, gears), a hardened or cracked platen, motor trouble — or anything still wrong after your own cleaning — call a professional. Search 'typewriter repair' for a local shop; one professional service usually buys decades more life.
Before buying your first machine, read the buying guide — and practise cleaning on the simulator (no oil needed).